3. Photograph: Felicity Cloake, Felicity's perfect salade niçoise (served, embezzlement and accused of womanising and racism, on the no-no crockery. Cold white wine and hot toasted mini baguettes round out the meal. One of my favourites. As Escudier's recipe suggests, tomatoes should be a major part of every niçoise – and they have to be really ripe. Photograph: Felicity Cloake, Delia Smith recipe salade niçoise. I’m also with Mimi Sheraton (I’m with Mimi Sheraton on pretty much everything –  see Food and How to Harness Its Power in the Deliciously Slow Art of Seduction) on the matter of the tuna. Living in hot steamy central Florida, this is one of our year round staples. I'm surprised to find that the first few recipes I look at eschew the tuna altogether – Rowley Leigh, Nigel Slater and Simon Hopkinson all prefer it without – but finally, I find an exponent in good old Delia Smith, who calls the niçoise "one of the best combinations of salad ingredients ever invented". Equally – what else is a magnificent salad if not a monumentally good way to use up the maybe-aging contents of your fridge? Simmer for 7½ minutes, then decant into a bowl of iced water. To serve, whisk the remaining oil and vinegar with the lemon juice in a small bowl and toss in the lettuce wedges. Anchovies it is. Médecin says that traditionally anchovies are a more common addition than expensive tuna, which was saved for special occasions, and that the two would never be used together (although he admits sadly that "nowadays even the Niçois often combine anchovies with tuna"). What to do with the leftovers? Pour the dressing around and over the salad. "Whatever you do," Médecin begs, "if you want to be a worthy exponent of Niçoise cookery, never, never, I beg you, include boiled potato or any other boiled vegetable." Because it is highly likely that this fisherman’s packed lunch is the origin of the Salade Niçoise. Rub with a clove of cut garlic. Be warned, very salty!!! Anchovies, artichoke hearts, lamb’s lettuce or lovage, radishes, pickled cucumbers…yes, and hard-boiled eggs… can all be added according to availability and whim – the point is that only crudités are used – everything is raw, the only thing cooked being the egg. Perhaps the idea has gone the same way as sun-dried tomatoes and balsamic reductions. And I SHALL be repeating it and no, I DON’T care! Peel and quarter the eggs and arrange on top, along with the olives, capers, anchovy strips and basil leaves. But then he goes and asks for a measly tuna salad….Aside from the President and his predilection for Burger King, everyone’s a salad buff in DC these days.” -Josh Glancy, The Sunday Times . I'll probably add a few tinned cannellini beans to the salad, but otherwise, it is very much like one I used to make years ago. We know the salad was designed to celebrate the fresh produce available at the markets in Nice, but we can’t say for certain that the One of my tasters sagely observes that they maintain their integrity better cut into wedges, rather than sliced. It’s known as a composed salad; The ingredients are assembled on top of the lettuce instead of being tossed together with a dressing. How do you make yours? The method for making these rolls (I’m telling you this for a reason) is to take a long-shaped French roll and cut it in half lengthways. Felicity Cloake's perfect salade nicoise Photograph: Felicity Cloake. Everyone seems to have a very strong opinion as to what should or should not go into a Salade Nicoise, so let me tell you from the outset, I have no desire to join the fray. 2 eggs500g broad bean pods or 50g French beans4 ripe tomatoes¼ cucumber2 spring onions, finely chopped½ red pepper, thinly sliced50g small black olives, pitted1 tbsp capers4 anchovies, cut into sliversA few basil leaves, roughly torn, For the dressing:1 small clove of garlicPinch of coarse salt2 anchovies, finely choppedSmall handful of basil leaves, torn4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil½ tbsp red wine vinegarBlack pepper. Just ask any chef. Even the peppery rocket seems a bit of an afterthought. Deseeding them is another must, for the same reason as the cucumber. Pan Bagna (which means ‘moistened bread’) are enjoyed in cafés, washed down with a glass of the local rosé, and a game of pétanque going on nearby for entertainment. aving spent about two-thirds of my life to date avoiding salade niçoise I'm taking a deep breath before wading into this subject. Serves 2-4 – if you need something else to eat it’s good with arancini (yes, I know this is anything but Provençal), Chicken tagine with preserved lemons and other north African ingredients, So a friend has bought me some Cantal cheese – it’s new to me, is it just for eating or can I cook with it?…. I'm afraid to say I went with a few cheaper ingredients as I'm on a budget but the end product was still satisfying. Copyright © 2020 Nigella Lawson, 200 grams sunblush tomatoes (in seasoned oil), ½ teaspoon maldon salt (or pinch table salt), 1 cup sunblush tomatoes (in seasoned oil), ½ teaspoon sea salt flakes (or pinch table salt). I put in what I have at home from, broadly, the accepted canon, but not necessarily everything the purists would. Photograph: Felicity Cloake, Rowley Leigh recipe salade niçoise. Does anyone make it with whatever's in season, peasant-style, and is it a dish that demands expensive anchovies, or will anything from a tin do? I am a great believer in keeping these on hand. “We had a secluded corner table, as befitted my guest and his exalted position as a ‘guy who knows Trump’. However, flavourful tomatoes are hard to find in northern climes – she suggests using sunblush tomatoes. Cover the bottom half with black olives, some pieces of red or green pepper, tomato, and baby broad beans. Peel and quarter the almost but not quite hard-boiled eggs and add to the salad along with the croutons, anchovy fillets (if using) and basil leaves. Using the reserved juices left in the tomato mixture's bowl, make the dressing: whisk in the olive oil, lemon juice, salt and sugar and pour over the salad. Nicoise salad (pronounced nee-SWAZ) is a refreshing, colorful salad that comes from Nice, France. Drain the tuna and place chunks of it along with the tomatoes and olives, then strew with the drained beans. It makes, I must admit, a very fine supper, but it's not a salade niçoise – and chopping up such an expensive piece of fish and tossing it together with the salad would seem like a terrible waste. Gary serves his chargrilled tuna with a sort of niçoise salsa. )In this country, then, as well as the objectionably odoriferous fish, a salade niçoise will always, always contain hard-boiled eggs, potatoes and French beans – and perhaps a couple of rubbery black olives. Mix the garlic, salt, pepper and olive oil to make the dressing. On to French beans, again as used by Delia and Gary, and which also have their fans in Nigel Slater and Simon Hopkinson. Gary opts for yellow, presumably for the flash of colour it delivers, but I prefer the sweetness of Rowley Leigh's red pepper with the saltiness of the anchovies and olives. The raw shallots are too aggressive, but I quite like the red onion – the flavour of the spring onion, however, wins on freshness grounds. Since the tomatoes we get mostly don't have a lot of flavour, I tend to use those tubs of "sunblush" tomatoes, and their intense, flavourful acidity works well here. How clever to cook the eggs and the green beans together! In my defence, when I actually spent some time in Nice and its environs I realised my prejudice was entirely based on the British version of the dish, which regards tinned tuna (my bete noir) as a mandatory ingredient. It only takes a minute in any case. Unfortunately, despite its success, the authentic and traditional Niçoise salad is only known by a minority of people. 1. Garlic, however, is an absolute must – and adding it to the dressing is a more reliable way of doing things than the classic rubbing of the salad bowl trick.